The Victory

What it is

The Victory took over the Lordship Lane corner site that was Franklins for about 25 years, with Jamie Younger and Rema Waterhouse behind it and Seán Breen in the kitchen. It works as two rooms: a lively pub bar at the front and, at the back, a dining room built around a large open kitchen. The cooking pairs British produce with French bistro technique: egg mayonnaise soldiers with Cantabrian anchovy, a gilda made with smoked eel in place of anchovy (£4), peri-peri chicken hearts (£3), raw English tuna with shallots and capers, cod with tarragon chanterelles and sweetcorn purée, and a whole roast poulet jaune served in two parts. The London Standard reviewed it in September, and Time Out placed it sixth on its list of the best new London restaurants in October.