ENDO

What it is

Endo Kazutoshi has reopened in Chelsea after a fire closed Endo at the Rotunda in White City last year. ENDO occupies a townhouse on Blacklands Terrace that until recently housed The Five Fields. There are ten seats at an eight-metre counter of 200-year-old hinoki wood, facing an open kitchen and robata. There is no menu: the omakase is £305 a head, built on locally caught fish with rice, nori and wasabi from Japan. Dishes reported so far include red mullet with egg yolk and sweet soy, Isle of Skye langoustine with miso-coated caviar, a 'business card' nigiri of tuna, rice and soy wrapped in nori, and a koji rice soufflé with black tea ice cream. Upstairs, the Moga listening bar sits under a ceiling of more than 3,000 masu sake cups and is open only to Endo diners for now. Reservations are taken by email; the official site says the counter is fully booked through November and December and keeps a waiting list.