Marrion's

What it is

Marrion's is the follow-up to Norman's Cafe in Archway from its co-founder Elliott Kaye. It is a small, dimly lit neighbourhood bar on Morning Lane, with a stainless-steel counter facing a hatch into the kitchen and a smoking bench out front, and it takes walk-ins only, Wednesday to Saturday from 6.30pm. The food crosses a French bistro with an American diner: devilled crab rarebit, prawn cocktail, deep-fried olives, a Waldorf salad, moules frites, pork schnitzel Holstein and a cheeseburger. The Nudge put plates at £6 to £16, with wine from £5 a glass and £35 a bottle, and Victoria Málaga on draught at £3. The London Standard reviewed it in October and found that it grew on its critic.